"The brown plain stretched to the horizon on all sides, under a pale blue sky and a warming sun. To the south there would eventually be mountains again, separating Turkmenia from Iran and Afghanistan ... to the north, the gravel of the plain soon ran into the sands of the Kara Kum Desert, where dunes were sometimes 300 feet high and the camel came into its own."
- Geoffrey Moorhouse, Apples in the Snow

Of all the Central Asian republics, Turkmenistan remains the least known, a hermit state kept that way by the dictatorial rule of President-for-Life Saparmat Niyazov. Since independence Turkmenistan has maintained a policy of strict neutrality with regards to Afghanistan, and has dealt with the Taliban, the Northern Alliance and the Karzai government alike. This has in part been motivated by an interest in the long-mooted oil and gas pipeline running south across Afghanistan and Pakistan to the warm waters of the Indian Ocean - a project that all sides currently seem keen to revive.

A strict visa and border regime means clearing several hurdles for any traveller proposing to enter or exit Afghanistan through Turkmenistan. There are two border potential border crossings: from Serkhetabat to Torghundi (and onto Herat) or the more remote Imam Nazar crossing to Andkhoi.

Paperwork
Turkmenistan visas come in two forms: tourist and transit visas, generally valid for up to three weeks or a week respectively. Tourist visas are more restrictive and require you to be accompanied by a Turkmen guide throughout your trip, bumping costs and restricting movement. A letter of invitation from a Turkmen travel agent is also needed to obtain the visa. Transit visas allow you to travel more freely. They are also easier to obtain, not generally requiring a letter of invitation. Irrespective of visa type, if entering or leaving Turkmenistan by land, you need to clearly specify on your visa your points of entry and exit - Turkmenistan's borders are classified as restricted areas and require permission on your visa to travel near or across them.

Turkmen visas are technically available in Kabul and at the consulates in Herat and Mazar-e Sharif, but require a letter of invitation, and in all probability a lot of patience and luck. The embassy in Kabul is particularly unfriendly. Afghan visas are easily obtainable in Ashgabat without the need for any supporting paperwork. For relevant embassy details see Visas.

Borders
The main crossing from Turkmenistan is at Serkhetabat (called Gushgi or Kushka on old maps) to the Afghan border post of Torghundi. This border has until recently been closed to all but a trickle of commercial traffic as there is no formal customs point on the Afghan side (one is being built to open in 2006), although the enterprising traveller should still be able to cross with a bit of luck - several travellers have successfully crossed in spring/summer 2005 without any reported problems. Expect serious customs checks on the Turkmen side (who may also demand an entry/registration fee of around US$10). If you don't have your own transport, the two border posts are about 20 minute's walk apart. There's a dreary Russian hotel in Torghundi, with better facilities at Serkhetabat, including an old Intourist hotel. From Serkhetabat, buses and trains run to Mary and Ashgabat. From Torghundi, there's little traffic south to Herat so take what's available: the road is poor but passable by Land Cruiser or Kamaz truck. This road is reportedly due to be upgraded, but don't hold your breath. It currently takes about three hours to reach Herat.

A second border crossing is at the Afghan town of Imam Nazar - your Turkmen visa will need to be marked either Atamyrat (Kerki) or Imam Nazar. The Afghan border is a 2km walk from the Turkmen side. From Imam Nazar it is around two or three hours to reach Andkhoi, and a further three or four hours from there to Mazar-e Sharif. Note that this border is not marked on some commercially available maps of Afghanistan, such as the GeoCenter 1:2 million sheet. Several travellers have reported crossing here in 2004 without trouble.

Other information
For help with arranging Turkmen tourist and transit visas, the Central Asia specialists Stantours come with a good reputation, and have a useful website with further information about travel in Turkmenistan. For more information regarding travel in Turkmenistan, Lonely Planet's Central Asia (2004) is the only available print guide, but has little coverage of the areas bordering Afghanistan.