"I first saw Afghanistan's hills of amethyst and plains of amber in January 1980, at the time of the Soviet invasion. But I saw them only at a distance, from the Pakistani side of the border at Torkum. Nine years later, in February 1989, I crossed the border at last to report on the Soviet withdrawal. Soon afterwards I found myself trekking across it to Kabul disguised as an Afghan but absent-mindedly carrying a bag from Heffer's bookshop in Cambridge."
- John Simpson, A Mad World, My Masters

The Khyber Pass between Afghanistan and Pakistan’s North-West Frontier Province must rank among the most evocative border crossings in the world. The border- the Durand Line- was fixed by the British in 1893 and divided ethnic Pashtuns in two. The resulting “Pashtunistan” issue has informed relations between the two countries ever since. Today, the Tribal Areas of Pakistan remain largely outside federal control resulting in a completely porous border, and a haven for smugglers, drugs laboratories, and now, neo-Taliban fighters and most probably Osama Bin Laden himself.

There are two border crossings from Pakistan into Afghanistan. The major crossing is through the Khyber Pass at Torkham, linking the frontier city of Peshawar to Jalalabad. The second - less used and carrying a severe security warning - is at Chaman in Pakistan's Baluchistan province, between Quetta and Kandahar.

Ariana operate weekly services linking Kabul to Islamabad and Quetta. Pakistan International Airways fly from Islamabad to Kabul three times a week, with one flight stopping in Peshawar.

Paperwork
Afghan visas are issued in Islamabad, but many travellers will find the quick service at the consulate in Peshawar more convenient. Travelling in the reverse direction, the Pakistan embassy in Kabul bears a terrible relation for issuing visas. Those working in Afghanistan should have few problems provided their application is supported by a letter from their organisation; those travelling may be variously asked for a letter of support from their embassy (which many are reluctant to issue in Kabul) or refuse the application altogether. Visa costs are also high. The consulate in Jalalabad is more amenable about issuing visas, particularly if you're willing to chat with the staff about cricket, but be aware of potential difficulties before you travel and, if you can, get your visa elsewhere. For relevant embassy details see Visas.

Foreigners travelling in the Tribal Areas require a special permit. In Peshawar, this permit is obtained from the Kyber Political Agent’s Office on Stadium Road. You will need a photocopy of your passport with both your Afghan and Pakistani visas and apply not less than 48 hours before you intend to make the trip. State that you are travelling all the way to the border at Torkham, rather than just to see the Khyber Pass at Michni viewpoint, a popular tourist's day out. The permit includes an armed guide.

Borders
On the day you cross the border, you need to pick up an armed guard from the Khyber Agency to accompany you. The guard is free but will expect to be tipped. Taxis from Peshawar to Torkham take just under two hours.

After being stamped out of Pakistan, there is a small border post on the Afghan side where your passports are checked, before the main immigration post a further 500m - opposite a white building with an OMAR mine awareness mural. Customs checks are non-existent. With your documents in order you are free to deal with the money changers and taxi drivers. Shared taxis to Jalalabad take two hours (more by bus) on one of the best roads in Afghanistan, and a further four hours to Kabul, on a road that is considerably worse but very beautiful. It is just possible to travel from Peshawar to Kabul in one day if you start early enough. Security on this road is generally fine, but be aware that there are occasionally reports of insurgent attacks in the region, especially in the Sarobi area. Check the situation before travelling.

Attempting to cross between Quetta and Kandahar is currently not recommended. Permits are required as with the Khyber crossing; it is technically possible to travel from Quetta to the Pakistani border point of Chaman by road or train. This region is highly volatile, and Spin Boldak, the Afghan border point, is the scene of regular attacks by neo-Taliban. Any foreigners present a highly visible target. The road is currently being upgraded.

Other information
Footprint's Northern Pakistan (2004) is an excellent guide to Pakistan's NWFP, but sadly lists out of date Taliban-era information for the Afghan border (for example, continuing to incorrectly place Peshawar's Afghan consulate in University Town). Lonely Planet's somewhat thinner Pakistan and the Karakoram Highway (2004) at least suggests that crossing the Khyber is possible.

In Peshawar, the Tourist Inn Motel continues to be a good place to meet other Afghan-bound travellers, despite being cramped, dirty and overpriced. Stay in the Old City instead. Saeed Bookbank on Arbab Road (Saddar Bazaar) is useful for Afghan books and phrasebooks, as well as for picking up the international press.

In March 2005, the Pakistani and Afghan governments signed a protocol announcing the start of regular direct bus services between Peshawar and Jalalabad, and between Quetta and Kandahar. No timescale was announced, although when the services begin it it likely that the restrictions on foreigners travelling through the Tribal Areas will still apply. Similarly, plans have been announced for a raillink to be built to link Kandahar to the Pakistani rail network, with construction optimistically scheduled to start in 2006.