"By chance I was in Kandahar in December 1979 and watched the first Soviet tanks roll in. Teenage Soviet soldiers had driven for two days from the Soviet Republic of Turkmenistan in Central Asia to Herat and then on to Kandahar along a metalled highway that the Soviets had themselves built in the 1960s. Many of the soldiers were of Central Asian origin. They got out of their tanks, dusted off their uniforms and ambled across to the nearest stall for a cup of sugarless green tea- a staple part of the diet in both Afghanistan and Central Asia. The Afghans in the bazaar just stood and stared."
- Ahmed Rashid, Taliban: Islam, Oil and the New Great Game in Central Asia

Kandahar is Afghanistan's second city, and was the capitalof the first independent Afghan kingdom under Ahmad Shah Durrani in the 18th century. Once best known for its lush orchards (particularly its pomegranates), Kandahar is now more often thought of as the old centre of Taliban power and a centre for Pashtun conservatism. Kandahar cannot be regarded as being completely safe to visit, and up to date security information is vital before considering any trip here.

Where to Stay
Travellers to Kandahar have several hotel options. The most popular hotel has been the Noor Jahan Hotel on Shahidanu Chowk, with rooms costing around US$15-20. Alternatives include the Pamir Passenger and Khiber [sic] Hotels, both similarly priced and close to the Id Gah Gateway in the north of the old city. There are several cheap hotels around Shahidanu Chowk although many will refuse to take foreigners. Security is a prime concern in choosing accommodation.

Where to Eat
The Pamir Passenger Hotel has a restaurant, and there is a cluster of kebab-style places around Shahidanu Chowk. Kandahar is a Pashtun city, and the cuisine reflects this - chapli kebab is popular, a thick burger with onion and nan-bread. Although much depleted as a result of war and drought, Kandahar's orchards still produce their famous crops - pomegranates and oranges in particular in late summer.

Transport Connections
Buses and HiAces leave from the bus station near Shahidanu Chowk. The upgrading of the Kandahar-Kabul highway has been completed, cutting travel times between the two cities to half a day. The road to Herat is being worked on but remains. Kandahar-Herat takes a day. Travel en neither road can currently be recommended due to insurgent activity, and the very real threat of being targeted as a foreigner, or being the accidental victim of a roadside bomb. Ariana flies between Kabul and Kandahar.

Security
The security situation in Kandahar and neighbouring provinces is tense, and attacks on western targets (mainly the US military, but also NGO offices and vehicles) remain a serious problem. Kandahar is a conservative Pashtun city and was the centre of the Taliban regime, and anti-western feelings are highest in this part of Afghanistan. Since spring 2005, Taliban elements have pursued apolicy of assassinating local mullahs and judges supportive of the Karzai government, which has increased feelings of instability among the population. The road from Kandahar to Ghazni has been subject to attacks, and the UN operate a tight travel curfew from dawn to late afternoon. An Italian traveller was killed on this road at Qalat in April 2003. A UN travel curfew applies on the road west to Herat, particularly the stretch through Helmand province. The border town of Spin Boldak should also be regarded as a high security risk. It essential to consult reliable up to date sources on the situation around Kandahar before planning to travel. Most NGOs currently restrict non-essential staff travel outside the city limits.